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Deep beneath the earth in South Africa’s disused gold mines, a hidden “town” thrives—a lawless underworld controlled by gangs. Among its 600 residents is Ndumiso, a 52-year-old miner who spends months underground, risking his life in pursuit of wealth as a “zama zama,” or illegal miner.
After losing his job with a formal mining company in 1996, Ndumiso struggled to find work in a country with an unemployment rate exceeding 30%. Eight years ago, he joined the shadowy world of illegal mining. Though the dangers are immense, the rewards far surpass his former earnings.
A Ruthless Underground Existence
“The underground life is ruthless. Many don’t make it out alive,” Ndumiso said, requesting anonymity to avoid reprisals. He described an eerie “zama zama graveyard” where bodies and skeletons of miners lie in abandoned shafts. Despite the risks, he remains, driven by the need to support his family.
Sleeping on sandbags after grueling days, Ndumiso uses rudimentary tools and dynamite to extract gold. The spoils are handed over to gang leaders, who pay him $1,100 every two weeks. On top of this, he keeps a small portion of gold to sell on the black market, earning between $3,800 and $5,500 every three months—an annual income of up to $22,000, a stark contrast to the $2,700 he earned as a legal miner.
Providing for His Family
This dangerous work has transformed his family’s fortunes. Ndumiso used his earnings to purchase and expand a house in Johannesburg, paid in cash. He has also sent his three children to private schools, one of whom now attends university.
Despite the risks, Ndumiso insists he prefers mining over turning to crime, saying, “I’d rather toil underground than become a car hijacker or robber.”
A Community Below Ground
The mine shafts Ndumiso works in resemble a small town, complete with markets and a red-light district. Essential goods like food, batteries, and mining tools are sold at inflated prices. Signs painted on the tunnel walls direct miners to areas such as makeshift toilets or the graveyard.
Sex workers are reportedly brought underground by gangs, and miners like Ndumiso pay protection fees to heavily armed guards who fend off rival groups. The gangs, including some from neighboring Lesotho, are notorious for their firepower.
A National Crisis
Illegal mining has spiraled into a massive industry, with an estimated 36,000 zama zamas in Gauteng province alone. South Africa has over 6,000 abandoned mines, many no longer profitable for large-scale companies but lucrative for small-scale operations.
The government recently intensified its crackdown, with security forces blocking food and water from reaching miners trapped in a Stilfontein shaft. Police have avoided entering the tunnels, citing fears of armed confrontations. President Cyril Ramaphosa described the mine as a “crime scene,” emphasizing that illegal mining costs the economy billions in lost revenue.
However, critics argue that targeting the miners ignores the kingpins in affluent neighborhoods who run the illegal trade. “There should be a policy to decriminalize and regulate their operations,” said David van Wyk, a researcher at South Africa’s Benchmark Foundation.
Looking Ahead
As Ndumiso prepares to return underground, he stocks up on canned food to avoid the exorbitant prices in the subterranean market. The risks are immense—ranging from rockfalls and rival gang violence to exposure to hazardous chemicals like mercury and cyanide used in gold extraction.
Still, the pull of financial security for his family outweighs the dangers. For Ndumiso and thousands like him, the grim realities of life above ground leave them with little choice but to descend into the perilous depths of South Africa’s abandoned mines.
